I recently wrote about Biryali, a long-time popular and influential Greek restaurant that reopened in Manhattan, and this week I'm pleased to report that the new Paros, named after the Aegean island, showcases the evolution of Greek. Dine and style in a beautiful 3,500 square foot space with a 100-seat dining area and a 40-seat outdoor patio when the beautiful weather returns to TriBeCa.
The owners, George and Nicholas Pagonis, have decorated the spacious rooms above Milos Istiatorios, with high ceilings and whitewashed walls reminiscent of Cycladic architecture, as well as a rattan roof that adds a rustic touch. The bar is made of white marble, the chairs are blue and white, the lighting is dim and the volume is not too high, although it would be better to listen to real Greek music than annoying techno.
George and Nicholas began their hospitality training while working in their family's restaurant in Alexandria, Virginia. George later worked at Anassa Taverna in Astoria and was culinary director at Kyma Hudson Yards and Kyma Flatiron in New York City, where Nicholas was general manager. Now that George is in the kitchen, they have put a special twist and presentation on a favorite dish from Greek food culture.
The best place to start, of course, is the selection ofappetizers ($6 each) served on warm flatbread, including silky chickpea hummus and thermal tahini, and refreshing tzatziki with rich yoghurt and yoghurt. Dill Skordalia is a pita with garlic cream and taramosalata is topped with potatoes, carp and fried sturgeon. Best of all is the delicious Melitzanosalata made from sweet and lightly smoked eggplant.
There are also oyster cocktails ($24-$46), giant crab ($25), prawns ($24) and lobster ($40), as well as a choice of four types of toast “cooked” in tart fruit juice ($24-$29). . Starters start with a generous portion of shrimp saganaki ($29), served with dill, oregano and other herbs, alongside ripe tomatoes with feta cheese and chili flakes, and you'll want to share plates. Kolokitokeftede fried zucchini with lemon yogurt ($20), which is way more fun.
Sharing a portion of the slow-cooked lamb yuvitski ($50) is a must, as it's a delicious dish filled with peeled tomato orzo pasta and melted mezzetra cheese for added flavor.
There were three whole fish on the grill and I was expecting more variety, but the Mediterranean bream ($43), finfish ($52) and mid-Atlantic black sea bass ($48) were also perfectly cooked for maximum freshness. Like fatty Madagascar tiger prawns ($49). Large slices of lemon fries ($12) pair well.
I love Greek desserts and Paros' desserts - baklava ($14), orange-spiced portokalopita ($14) and galaktopouriko semolina pudding ($14) - have just the right amount of sweetness and a honey glaze, while the creamy yogurt (12 $) is a pleasure. A balm for good digestion after eating.
The wine list is more than enough to convince you of the excellence of Greek wine in this century.
There are many interesting Greek restaurants in downtown Manhattan, but most of them are bars or taverns. The lighthouse is new and exciting in the neighborhood, and although it is more expensive than most of its competitors (with the exception of the pricey Milos Lighthouse), its grandeur and elegant charm are a testament to the Greek saying “Pokea Kai Segurio.” “One bite and all is forgiven.”
